Where to Walk

Northern Ireland (and Donegal)

2009-07-31T16:50:00.003Z

Highlights:

The north east and north coast of Northern Ireland are the highlight, with many fine coastal walks, e.g. around Giants Causeway - stay near the Causeway itself, there are 2 fine pubs nearby. There is a (summer) coastal bus service to take you back to your car.
??? and Temple (NT) : short but lovely coastal walks with ruins
Belfast - its not Dublin and is quiet weeknights, but there are a couple of hills near the centre. Mount Stewart (NT Gardens) is nearby.
Donegal (the Irish coastline west of Northern Ireland) has dramatic but bleak 'north west of scotland like' coastline - beautiful, but it rains!

Now completely safe after the troubles, and with Ryanair and the other low cost carriers, a very cheap to fly to.

Before you go

Northern Ireland has one of the best tourism agencies in the world. Lots of brochures on walking - and also on cycling, canoeing, accomodation, etc. and some very useful websites.

No walking specific guide books that can be recommended - the best is a Lonely Planet walking guide, but its to the whole of Ireland, so stick to the Walk NI website.

The Rough Guide to Ireland, which we had, isn't recommended for its coverage of the North.

You'll need a car, book in advance [2009 advice] as the airports often run out of cars. However, rates are as low as £12 a day in low season.

Accomodation - B&B's:

The ones sampled were expensive (£55 - £65 per double) and poor quality - tea making facilities were rare, flock wallpaper and carpets common. Use Trip Advisor, and book the recommended ones in advance. One B&B owner wondered how we could afford them, and said she'd never use them herself, and recommended mid-week deals in small hotels. There are lots of YHA and hostels, many of which now have individual rooms.

Accomodation should be easy to find [2009], as the number of tourists is 50% down on last year(the recession, the euro, and Ryanair cutting flights)

Walks

Many of the "Walk NI" walks are short ones in NT properties (so membership will help) and parks/nature reserves, but there are day walks, and several multi day walks.

It will rain

So plan some non-walking days:
The Bushmills tour (Irish Whiskey, near the Giants Causeway), but check the factory isn't on summer break,
Some good NT houses and gardens (Florence Court near Enniskillen, Mount Stewart near Belfast)

Websites

Walk Northern Ireland - official website with list of walks
Ireland's Mountains - peak bagging info about each hill

The 7 Sisters (South Coast of England)

2006-12-21T18:30:00.001Z

The Seven Sisters is a dramtic coastal walk in south-east England, about 90 mins by train or car from London. It is soon to be part of the new South Downs National Park.

The whole are is open downland (short grass, no trees), with hills around 600 feet/200 metres, so good views.

The classic walk is Seaford along the coast to Eastbourne (both have train stations, or return to your car by regular bus service). This walk is along open downland, along the top of chalk cliffs, passing a river valley (paddle at low tide, or 2 mile detour inland to a bridge) and Beachy Head.

Equally good is the rest of the South Downs Way (marked on the OS map) Southease (train station) to Alfriston to Eastbourne.

Short Walk Ideas: 1) Anywhere along the Seven Sisters coast - accessable be road and (in summer) an open topped bus. 2) Alfriston to Wilmington Hill and back 3) Along the Eastbourne Seafront promenade

See Time Out Country Walks Volume 2, which has 3 walks in this area

Eastbourne: south coast seaside town with pier and promenade

Alfriston: beautiful village with green and picturesque church, YHA, hotels.

Lewes: pretty town with castle, but hard to park

Smaller village with pub: Jevington

Also worth visting is the Blomsbury Farmhouse (poor art, but lovely garden and location)

Gower (South Wales)

2006-12-21T17:33:00.001Z

The Gower is an area of outstanding natural beauty in South West Wales. Its a peninsular, are is most famous for its beaches, particulaly Rhosilli and Three Cliffs bays, which often gets in to "top 10 beaches in the world" lists. Its an easy weekend trip from London, and it doesn't get too crowded even in summer. Outside the summer holidays its possible to have a beach to yourself, and even during them, on weekdays, or further into Gower.

Besides beaches, there is The Mumbles (Swansea's latin quarter) and several rolling downs (about 150m/450 feet). Besides walking, Gower is great for mountain bikes, but you'll need to be quite fit. All the downs are suitable for cycling, they are hard with short grass under-wheel - a bit like the South Downs.

There is a coastal path around the entire peninsula. Its possible to walk a section, and then get the bus back. More than any other place, these walks are to enjoy, explore and take photographs, linger and take side-tracks, especially around Three Cliffs and Rhossili - don't just hurry round.

Maps : The OS 1:25,000 Explorer is a good idea.

Following the coast around from Swansea :

Swansea : B&B's and Hotels, train and bus station, shops and banks. If you're there at the weekend, try Wind Street (pronounced Wine) for bars and clubs.

Swansea Bay : Can cycle or walk along the sea front from Swansea. Half way along at Black Pill, there is a old railway line turned cycle track that heads inland, through a wooded valley, to a nice pub.

Mumbles (Oystermouth) : Pretty fishing village, castle, pier, lighthouse, B&Bs. Although the Mumbles mile (pub crawl) is not what it was - the pubs have been turned into appartments. The Village Inn is the pick, the Rose has got pretty rundown. Mumbles Head is a nice walk. Can walk around the coast to the next 2 bays.

Langland and Caswell Bay. Sandy beaches. Bus from Mummbles. Can follow the cliff path from Mumbles to get here. These 2 are 1 at low tide. Just along the coastal path is Brandy Cove, and then on to...

Pwildu Bay : Stoney beach. No road access. But a nice cliff walk to the next bay. Then on to ...

Three Cliffs Bay : World class beach. This is when it starts getting good. Can park at Parkmill or Southgate (better, NT Pay carpark). Over the headland, or around the cliffs at low tide to ...

NB There is no connection from these places by bus to Mummbles - you'll need to go back into Swansea to change. The South Gower bus route stops at all the following.

Great Tor and Oxwich Burrows : A very long and wide beach with sand dunes behind. Great place for a beach party. Park on the A road behind it, and walk down. Inland is Cevyn Bryn (188m) which is well worth the climb.

Oxwich : Expensive car park and hotel, bus service, but the far end of Oxwich bay. Nice walk aroud the headland.. Less intersting stretch to the next bay

Port Eynon : YHA, chip shop, Bus Service. Cliff Walk : A long cliff walk to Rhosilli, but there's a bus service back. Pass Mewslade bay (small) almost at the end. Mewslade would make a nice walk from Rhosilli, Out around the cliff path, back inland.

Rhossili : World class beach. Pub, Hotel, B&B, car park, bus service. Long Beach, with downs behind it and the Worms Head at 1 end

Worms Head Walk : Only do this walk at low tide. See notices. If you get it wrong, do not try and beat the tide on the way back, ring the bell for the coastguard to rescue you. If the tide is in, is still a nice walk around the headland

Rhossili Downs Walks : Follow the downs above the beach. Great views. Walk back along the beach

Lanngennith : North Gower Bus service. Pub. Great Camp site. The other end of Rhossili Bay. Llanmadoc Hill, above the top is a nice walk. Also can follow the coast out to Spaniard rock, then round to Broughton Bay

Whiteford Sands : . A real hidden treasure. No bus, can walk over the hill from Llangennith. Park in Llanmadoc (£1, honesty box). Walk down the road, through the pine forest, then cut through the dunes to the wide beach, walk out along the beach backed by sand-dunes, and back through the pine forest behind it

Walk : A all day great walk would be to start at Llanngennith, follow the coast round to Whiteford burrows, then return over Llanmadoc hill.

North Coast : Just mud flats

Inland : Reynoldstone has a great pub, follow the road to where it meets the Cevyn Bryn ridge for a nice easy walk to the trig point.

Cyclists : A good day long route would be : Mummbles - over headland via Newton and inland to - 3 Cliffs bay - Up to Cevyn Bryn hill, along ridge to Reynolstone (traffic free) - Rhossili - back along the North Gower Road to Upper Killay, and pick up the old railway cycle track down to the coast, and follow the seafront (car free) back to Mummbles.

Getting There : Hourly train from London, National Express or Megabus. Its about 3 hours drive from London. The train is about £70 return on Fridays, much cheaper if booked in advance.

Getting Around : There are hourly buses to each of the bays, but its much better to have your own car, besides its cheaper than the train.

When to go : Its nicer in summer, but as the hills are low, you can go year round.

Maderia (Atlantic Island)

2006-12-19T16:31:00.004Z

Madeira is a Portugese island of the coast of North West Africa, a few hundred miles north of the Canaries

It is very mountainous ... there is almost no flat land on the Island. Its possible to be at 3,000 feet (1,000 meters) only a mile from the coast. There are almost no beaches either (the land falls steeply into the Atlantic) which means much less tourism than the Canaries.

What it does have though are levandas. These are canals that contour around often very dramatic mountains. Walks in Maderia are graded both for toughness (how hilly) and scaryiness (how precipitous the drop and how narrow the ledge alongside the canal).

For walkers, especially less fit or olders walkers, this can be magical. An incredible mountain walk, with beautiful tropical flowers, with almost no change in elevation.

For more adventurous walkers, there are the tunnels (take a torch), which take the canals under ridges from one side of the mountain to the other.

There are a wide range of levanda walks. Some have wide, well maintained paths planted with tropical paths, and fences on exposed stretches, and are suitable for the elderely and children. Others are along older levandas with exposed drops and very narrow or crumbly paths. Guidebooks will tell you which is which beforehand.

Some of the levanda walks are in alpine regions, with dramatic views. The trailheads are easily accesable by car, but you need to be OK with hairpin bends, steep drops and hill starts. Others are between towns in the more populous parts of the island. These are reached by either car or bus from Funchal (capital and only big town).

There are 2 other types of walks on the island. A few alpine ridge walks in the centre of the island, and a few coastal walks. The paths are well maintained.

Accomodation : There are relatively few hotels, and not so much camping. Its best to book as part of a package tour, or with a 'Expedia' type website.

When to go : Year round, but mid winter can be cloudy on the high peaks and mid-summer can suffer from rain

Guide books : The best guidebooks are the Sunflower and Rother. However these are pure walking guides, they don't have any general tourist stuff

Getting Around : Best to rent a car. Many walks can be done by bus, but if you do this, you MUST base yourself in the centre of funchal (near the bus station, the centre of the bus network). The islands roads are truely amazing. The've recently built a series of tunnels (some a couple of miles long) through the mountains and bridges over ravines, so drives that used to be all day can be done in an hour!

Getting there : Fly to Funchal, about 3 hours from London. Only BA, TAP (Air Portual) at present - no budget airlines.

Cost: About £400 (Euro 600) for a hotel and flight package for weeks. More in Summer or Christmas/New Year based on 2 sharing. Self-catering with breakfast is a good option. Add £100 (Euro 150) for a rental car. Once there supermarkets are reasonable. Away from the coast, cafes are very cheap. About 1 euro for a coffee or beer.

More Photos

Brecon Beacons (South Wales)

2006-12-19T15:32:00.009Z

The Brecon Beacons are a National Park in South Wales, consisting of steep, rounded, treeless hills, almost reaching 3,000 feet (1,000 metres). To the east of the park, on the English border, are the Black Mountains. From the summits, there are stunning views on a clear day

The main centre is Brecon, but it grey slate building can look a little gloomy in bad weather.

Transport: Its best to have your own car.

There are several Maralyns in the park, each making a good day's walk.

Walks: From East to West.

Black Mountain (Fan Brycheiniog, 802m) . Park just north of the Dan-yr-Ogof caves on the A4067. Follow the obvious path (only the start is marked on OS maps), then the obvious ridge to the summit. Return the same way. Usually quiet.
Fan Gyhirych (725m) and Fan Nedd (663m). Between the A4067, and a minor road north of Ystradfellte
Fan Fawr (734m). East of the Storey Arms.
Pen-y-fan (886m) and Cordn-du (873m): A glacial peak at the top of a horseshoe shaped ridge. 2 options:
1) park at the Storey Arms car park (named after a long closed pub) on the A470 road, and follow one of the 2 obvious, well maintained paths to the summit. The start is at the top of a pass, so you're already at 439m. Busy at weekends.
2) for a better but harder circular walk, park at the Neuadd Resevoir access road (south of the mountain), and follow the horseshow ridge of the subsidary peaks.
Fom either walk, if time permits, follow a subsidary ridge east to Waun Rydd (769m)
Cefn yr Ystrad (617m). Further south than the other peaks, Access from a minor road north of Tredegar, or the Pontsticilli resevoir.

Safety: Apart from the tourist route up Pen-y-fan, and the Black Mountain, you must have a map and compass. Always take waterproofs. People die every year in the Brecon Beacons, even in summer.

Avebury (Wiltshire, England)

2006-12-19T15:32:00.006Z

[ej]
The Pewsey Downs, just South of the 5000 year-old stone circle of Avebury in Wiltshire and its neighbour the ancient Silbury Hill are recommended as a real treat. They could qualify as the most beautiful place in England, and certainly Southern England, because of their ancient and unusual shapes and rich heritage.

There are not many B&Bs in the area, but one suitable one might be the New Inn at Winterbourne Monkton (google it), which can accommodate between 6 and 10 people at time of writing (May 2008). The area is probably best seen by doing round walks and is only easily accessible by car or on foot, but not by railway.

The Pewsey Downs are the site of unusual flora and fauna, including rare butterflies in September. The easiest paths in the area are found by following the White Horse Trail, all of which is clearly marked on OS maps.

[Andrew]
Avebury is a small village inside 3 concentric rings of stones, similar to the nearby Stonehendge. Within walking distance is the start of the Ridgeway Long Distance Path along a grassy ridge, and an unexplained burial mound (Silbury Hill, a stone age, man made, hill). The village itself has a lovely church and a great pub that caters to tourists, kids dressed as Harry Potter, bikers and druids.

The area is easily reached by car from London. Public transport is harder, bus from Swindon (train from Paddington), or a day's walk from Pewsey (train from Paddington). Both are outside the Network Card area.

Lake District

2006-11-19T15:30:00.001Z

Coast To Coast Path

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